Street Photography in India

John Grosse is an enthusiast photographer who has made Street Photography in India his lifes passion. In John’s words India is Incredible,Uninique and unlike any other destination. John’s work is a magnificent reflection of the many vibrant and diverse faces of India.

John’s  interest in photography started as casual and intermittent, using a Voightlander Vito 35 mm film camera given to him by his parents as a 1948 Christmas present . At the age of 50 John bought an Olympus OM10 SLR on the strength of a forthcoming tour of Western Europe with a group of architects. On his return his friend and architect colleague Garth Robertson invited him to join the Port Elizabeth Camera Club and later, to use his darkroom where he introduced John to the magic of colour printing. He was hooked!

Competing in the print section of the PECC he rose to Honours level, and as a member of PSSA achieved FPSSA(Colour Prints). The digital era brought a new challenge resulting in a FPSSA(Vers).

John and his wife Madge  have been privileged to travel quite extensively, including to Eastern Europe, the Middle and Far East. In 1984 they joined an Insight Tour to the East which included a week in India. Incredible India. Since then he has returned to India 14 times over the past 30 years!

Here is John’s experience of India;

Why India?

 Incredible India is unique, unlike any other destination in my travel experience, so photogenic it is a photographers dream.

The sub-continent is huge, with great variations between regions, each having   unique topography, climate, history, culture, built environment and people. Exciting image possibilities abound, as does vibrant colour.

The country is geared up to put itself on display and accommodate the diverse needs of any traveler.

My photographic interest has evolved into recording images of the handsome, friendly people of the older parts of the cities and villages, and their heritage buildings, monuments and bazaars. Some of the images accompany this blog.

Where and when to go

 The more research one does, the more successful ones trip will be. We used Lonely Planet guides and tour brochures at first, but today we have the internet. Reading the Raj Quartet and watching The Marigold Hotel movie will give an idea of what to expect.

For a first visit and in view of the vast number of options available, one should consider selecting a single region to explore. This will economize on travel time and expense. Rajasthan would be my first choice.

Go when it is cool and dry. For Rajastan that would be October to March (peak season). September would be less expensive and since this is a desert state you could miss the end of the monsoon rains.

How to travel

Typical tourist itineraries are available from RSA travel agents. Group tours may suit inexperienced travelers but will provide limited photo opportunities.

Our most successful visits have been arranged by Services International Ltd. New Delhi. Their website india-travelpackages.com is user friendly, loaded with information and options, and they will provide quotes promptly for standard or tailored packages.

The services we have used have included a driver with air conditioned car for 2 passengers, standard packages with minor modifications, and superior hotels

(B & B), heritage properties where possible (old palaces, forts and the like).We have not required the provision of guides, nor pre-payment for access to monuments.

Suggestions

 Remember that you are a guest in a foreign land.

  • Be as inconspicuous as possible (difficult with a pale skin and laden with cameras).
  • Ask permission before photographing people (a smile and mime will do). Back off if they object).
  • Work quickly when taking a portrait, before a crowd gathers to embarrass the model. Do not pay the model unless circumstances make this appropriate.
  • Most models pose with a serious facial expression. I believe the Hindi word for “smile” is something like “haso”.
  • English is spoken generally as a second language.

My gear

Canon EOS 5 / 35-70m Film Camera (retired)

Canon 20D / 28-135mm EF IS

Nikon P7800 (Having given up carrying heavy camera gear, this small camera caters for most of my needs)

Here are my some of my favourite memories of India;

Bath (Khajuraho)

Few Indians enjoy the privilege of private bathing facilities.

(In order to simplify the composition I cloned out the boy’s Mother who was in the water. This is not an image for a photojournalism competition)

Splash (Khajuraho)

 Without motor drive, several images were taken to record this action, the bather being unaware of my presence

 Our baby

We came upon this moving family scene out in the country at the roadside home of a dhurrie carpet weaver.

The soft pink of the young mother’s sari sets the joyous mood.

Dhobi wallah (Mumbai)

I believe that this landmark open air laundry has been closed. Originally the washing was done manually by dhobi wallahs (laundry men) who lived in shanties on site, and fetched and carried bundled laundry on porter’s barrows. The workers were reputed to be illiterate, but had a marking system which insured the identity and safe return of all belongings handled.

 

Trader (Mumbai)

 It takes courage and (cheek) for a foreign traveler to ask a local stranger to pose for a portrait, and I am always pleased to receive a positive response to my request. I am not surprised when the model has to be encouraged to smile.

Do not be reluctant when young Indians ask you to join them (as an unusual member) in a group photograph.

Prep (Jaiselmer)

 

On the street (Mumbai)

 This image was made at Mumbai’s Apollo Bunder, location of The Gateway of India, the triumphal arch erected to commemorate the visit of King George V in 2011. In the adjacent waters of the Arabian Sea are colourful ferries to Elephanta Island, and nearby is the world famous Taj Palace hotel.

Indians are enthusiastic visitors to public spaces and tourist attractions in their own country so expect crowds. Where payment for access is required of foreigners, it is usually free or minimal for locals.

The adult pictured here seemed happy to be photographed, but ten minutes after my departure he appeared at my side, without child, asking for payment (the child was not necessarily his). We are told that many of these street dwellers prefer the freedom of that life of begging to the restrictions of a more regulated environment.

Homework

Food Street  (Karauli)

 Freshly cooked street food is usually safe to eat, but likely to be “spicey”.

If offered an option specify “not too spicey”.

“Delhi belly” used to be an occupational hazard, for which we have found the best cure to be “Kantrexil” which requires a script. Avoid the obvious eating risks.

Hberdasher

A fairly slow shutter speed shows movement in the folding of this shop keeper’s wares after departure of a customer.

Most street photography requires a hand held camera with the attendant constraints involved. Image stabilasation and rapid adjustment of ISO available in digital cameras helps deal with some difficulties.

Bus stop (Fatehpur)

A covered sidewalk bus shelter in a village street.

 One could write a novel about the thoughts in the minds of each of these people.

Buy one (Mysore)

Either a natural talent or this white haired lady had been photographed before. When I crouched down (with difficulty _ age) to photograph, she struck this delightful pose. I’m sure she knew that I wasn’t a customer.

Mysore is well known for its luxurious silk fabrics and fragrant sandalwood soap.

Neighbour 2 (Aurangabad)

 This seller in a street market smiled shyly at a neighbouring colleague while I tried to sort out an image.

News (Bundi)

This village street side doorstep must be the local “club”. The next image was taken a few years later at the same spot.

Bundi is a charming “medieval” walled village built in a valley, and overlooked by a fortified palace.

SMS (Bundi}

Mobile phones, an international pandemic!

News 2 (Ajmer)

The shopkeeper’s colourful headgear and character full face caught my attention, and his concentration on the news paper added interest.

Be prepared to point and shoot, before the moment has passed or your presence has been noticed.

Many shop fronts are open to the street, sidewalk or market, making a wealth of picture material readily accessible to the photographer. Of course one has to cope with the matter of crowds of shoppers.

Stringer

Maker of colourful thread bracelet braid, worn by all ages, sometimes as a sign of group allegiance.

With a population of over one billion, self employment and micro business enterprise are common features of Indian society, as are extended families of three generations living together.

Whitehead (Pushkar)

This one legged man sat on the ground against a street boundary wall, near the Lake Palace Hotel in Pushkar. He did not beg for alms, but always smiled in acknowledgement of a greeting, and touched his heart in thanks for any contribution.

We missed him on our last visit, and on enquiry were told that he had passed away.

Pushkar is a holy pilgrimage town built around a lake, where devotees come to immerse themselves in the waters. It is also the location for the famous camel fair photograph by Ernst Haas.

Glare (Jodhpur)

This image of a man reclining on his street side doorstep in Old Jodhpur was a “grab” shot taken without permission. It was only when I noticed his expression of displeasure that I saw his disability. His glare was a well deserved rebuke of my inconsiderate action.

Peace pipe (Gwalior)

I noticed one shop in Jaiselmer with signage saying “government ganja store”.

This smoker appeared to be unconcerned about being photographed partaking of the weed.

Shave 2

Another image that relied on this shop having an open front (closed at night with a steel roller shutter) on the street edge.

I saw more shaving than hair cutting in barber shops.

Business lunch (Old Delhi)

 Market traders taking a break.

High (Lohargal)

The glazed stare was the only response I received to my mimed request for a picture. One can only speculate about his thoughts.

News 3 (Omkareshwar)

Seems that newspaper readers make easy photographic targets, being less aware of what is happening around them. This fellow is on a high bridge across a river bisecting the town, and trafficked by vehicles, people and animals.

Wash (Orcha)

The village pump is both a community meeting place and a public bathroom. Modesty is a cultural prescript and in public the women bathe fully clothed in their saris.

Loner (Mathura)

Matura is a riverside holy pilgrimage town not far from Delhi.

On this damp day at the end of monsoon rains, we could not get near to the temples along the river bank due to high water levels. The orange and yellow robed holy man had the same problem, but was a colourful subject against the blue wall. He didn’t seem interested in the photographer.

Pushkar pilgrims (Pushkar)

We complain about potholes in our streets. I noticed that this large puddle was reflecting the colourful dress of the pilgrims passing by, and waited for the right moment.

Tank (Lohargal)

By good fortune we happened upon a season of pilgrimage to this remote temple complex and tank out in the countryside . This appears to be both a spiritual and social event. Note that most of the women bathe fully clothed. The men use a separate, roped off area of the same tank. The water comes from a flowing stream and is replaced continuously (but this is not the case at all tanks).

I tried to keep my photographic activity as discrete as possible, and no one objected to our presence as the only foreigners around.

Topless

Photographed at another temple complex, the women dry their saris after a ritual cleansing in the tank. In this case the men used a separate tank.

Heena moustache (Jaipur)

This middle aged concierge on the sidewalk outside a Jaipuri jewellery store was a co-operative model, despite the passing crowd, and his having to neglect his doorman duty. I had to reward him for this memorable image.

Festival 2   (Chomu_near Samode and Jaipur)

Religious, traditional and community festivals are a regular feature of Indian life, and can provide exciting, colourful images. You may get lucky even if your itinerary does not include these activities. Dates for major festivals are available from India tourism organisations.

Alley (Khajuraho)

Khajuraho town is a world tourist destination, famous for its group of millennium old temples each of which is heavily embelished outside with stone carvings depicting aspects of Indian life of the period. Gods and goddesses, warriors and musicians, real and mythological animals abound, and the repeated theme shown in greater detail than anything else is women and sex, every possibility of the Kamasutra.

The simple image shown here reflects the reality of local village life.

Monopod (Varanasi)

This one legged man with an improvised crutch sits on the stepped ghats of the holy Ganges river at Varanasi. It is the aim of many pious Hindus to visit this holy city and, if possible, die there.

Sikh trucker

I don’t remember the location of this truck stop where our driver pulled off for lunch. I do remember it being a seedy establishment with a rough clientele, and a proprietor who marched around with a curved dagger in his belt.

I was careless about our tea order, and we received a sweet, milky, boiled brew served in a glass. From our table we could see the glassware being washed in “water” the colour of that tea. The safer order would have been black tea, with milk and hot water separate.

If you prefer chai you will probably get the sweet boiled variety with the addition of a “curry” masala (spice).

In the parking lot I spotted this Handsome trucker and managed to capture a portrait of him looking down at me from the open window of his truck cab.

Bundi sleeper 2 (Bundi)

Permission was not requested for this image of a cycle rickshaw driver asleep in a roadside shelter.

THANK YOU John for your amazing images and for sharing your amazing experiences with us.

The Art of Street Photography

Street photography or candid photography as it is also know is as close as most of us will ever get to Photo Journalism. Its about capturing an image that tells a story about a place, people or a situation, and it does it spontaneously. Street photography  often takes you out of your comfort zone which makes it adventurous and exciting.

What we hope to achieve by this Blog is to share the experiences of some amateur street photographers and to expose their work. By doing so we will also take you to places you might never see or experience. That is the art of Street Photography. We will also provide you with links to more detailed incites into the art by recognised experts.

Wikipedia defines street photography as “photography conducted for art or inquiry that features unmediated chance encounters and random incidents.”

Typically, street photography is about candidly capturing life in public areas. And contrary to its name, street photography does not have to be done on the streets. You can do street photography anywhere.

Photography Life has published a most informative introduction to Street Photography.  Elizabeth’s  “Complete Guide to Street Photography for Beginners“. It is more than a useful aid for those wanting to embark on this very rewarding art form.

This article would not be complete without sharing the experiences of some of the Photographers who have embraced Street Photography as a hobby. The work of Jan Van Heerden is a great example of how a hobbyist can reveal the naked soul of a City. Jan was born and bred in Johannesburg South Africa. We asked Jan to give us a run down of his modus operandi. Here is what he said;

“I started photography in 2014 with the intention of compiling a history of the informal traders in Johannesburg’s townships. At that stage my job took me to 45 townships which presented me with an ideal opportunity to record the informal traders. I subsequently left the job and I never got my project off the ground.

One day while driving through the Johannesburg CBD a whole world opened up. I realised there was a glut of photographic opportunities. With my Canon 7D and a 18-135mm kit lens I embarked on a new adventure.

I usually go out early on a Sunday morning. The streets are quite with almost no traffic. I try to be unobtrusive as possible. I carry my camera in a plastic shopping bag. I don’t wear bright coloured clothing.

The only time I will ask permission to take a photo is if my subject objects to me taking their picture. I want the image to be as spontaneous and as telling as possible. If they object I normally show them the image and offer to e-mail it to them. I have never had anyone decline my offer.

I have taken pictures of cable thieves, gangs, assaults, drug addicts shooting something into their veins.

Whenever I feel uncomfortable I will walk away. Some places are a bit scary and provoking confrontation is not an option. I go solo and therefore avoid trouble as far as possible. My advice is not to attract too much attention, don’t use telephoto lenses, if confronted apologise and walk away. I always keep my car within short  distances from where I am.

Take it easy if you do go out into the street, first explore areas familiar to you. Not many sites are as formidable as the Johannesburg CBD”.

Johannesburg was at one time one of the richest cities in the world producing almost a third of the worlds gold. The city center was the hub of a bustling financial phenomena. It exploded into existence at the end of the nineteenth century and within twenty years became a monument to to the riches of the soil. Some of the worlds richest men built their castles with the help of great architects like Sir Herbert Baker. The City Center reflected that opulence, but when the restrictions of apartheid were lifted there was a massive influx of impoverished refugees from all over Africa and rural South Africa, that slowly eroded the opulence. Jan’s work captures the new soul of Johannesburg’s inner city with its new character, decay, charm and sometimes ironic beauty.

Here are some of his images with his own captions;

These men eke out a meager existence by scavenging household discarded waste. Here they are busy sorting the waste into plastic, paper and cardboard. This was taken at an empty residential property that was demolished to make space for a development.

I was attending  a wedding. It was a rainy day and I was cooped up in hotel room waiting for the service. I gazed through the window, contemplating the lack of photography for the day. When I saw this person in the street on his mobile phone. It presented an ideal photo opportunity.

This image was taken in Newtown in downtown Johannesburg.  I noticed this street cleaner approx. 200 meters away and waited for her to come within ‘shooting’ distance. Only when I viewed the photo on my computer, did I notice the man sitting behind her. His face is visible  behind her left shoulder.

Westdene Johannesburg.

The grime and neglect attracted me to this building. I took a few photos and this group of men entered my view. I kept on taking photos and once again when I viewed the images at home, I realised that this was potentially a bad move on my part.

I titled this photo ‘Cool and the Gang’ One is not always aware of ones surroundings when taking photos. It has happened on a number of occasions.

Services are glaringly scarce in places where the payment of property taxes are not popular. A The lack of garbage collection and a culture of littering is prevalent.

Like every major city the homeless are a reality.

Many of the grand old buildings have become canvases for some spectacular graffiti.

Newtown

The recycle men are all over town. This was taken at the Museum Africa. The building was erected in 1913 and was the first fresh produce market in Johannesburg. It was the largest building in South Africa on completion.

Today the building houses Museum Africa and The Market Theater.

This entire area is a classic example of urban decay.

Informal workers eke out a living collecting recyclable waste and transporting it on their trolleys sometimes over great distances, to depots where they get paid by weight for paper and plastics.

Fox St. Johannesburg CBD

This facade attracted me. It is adjacent to the Standard Bank Commissioner Street.  Built in 1908, there was an influx of people in search of their fortunes, after the discovery of gold.

Fordsburg Johannesburg.

This man is the king pin at this recycling site. All collectors have to pay him and ‘entrance’ fee before they can sell their recyclable material at the collection site.

Constitutional Hill at The Fort in Hillbrow.

11 Kotze Street  Hillbrow was built betwwen 1896 to 1899 for the purpose of holding British soldiers captured  during the Anglo-Boer War. After the war it was converted into a regular prison.

I saw the old lady sitting on the bench having lunch.

A waste collector on his way to the depot.

Newtown

Johannesburg city has become one of the biggest exhibitions for talented graffiti artists anywhere in the world.

FARADAY STREET

Traditional medicines or “Muti” as it is known is big business in the informal sector. Operating from a sidewalk this trader offers cures for every known affliction.

Newtown Johannesburg.

I am not sure what happens in this building. I photograph graffiti and this building drew my attention. It could be a music club, but I saw people going into the building in the morning and no music to be heard. When I saw the two pedestrians walking past looking into the doorway I took the photo. Often it is just luck that gets the timing right.

Fietas Johannesburg

It is an old suburb and has fascinating old buildings.

Fietas is the unofficial name given to this suburb, it’s official name is Pageview. It is one of Johannesburg suburbs steeped in unfortunate history.

During the apartheid era the inhabitants, mainly Indian traders were removed by force from their homes.The suburb was renowned for it’s traders and the white people flocked to 14th street for bargains. The traders were relocated to the Oriental Plaza. The shopping and atmosphere has never been the same.

One of the fascinating old buildings in Fietas. There are buildings dating back to late 1800’s.

Fietas

Another historical building in Fietas. It is a fascinating area to visit.

Diagonal Street opposite the old Johannesburg Stock Exchange

Carmel Building constructed in 1897 is one of Johannesburg Heritage sites.

The man leaning out of the window was an opportunity not to be missed.

Braamfontein Kotze Street, Johannesburg

There was a Graffiti painting festival in Braamfontien. I am fascinated by graffiti, maybe a morbid fascination so I decided to visit the area. I came across these two young ladies taking photos of each other. It was an ideal opportunity for me to take a photo.

Ferreirasdorp Johannesburg.

I came across this magnificent work of art with the assistance of a stall trader at no 1 Fox street. 50 meters from this site.

The photographers in the scene give one a perspective of the scale of this Graffiti

Ferreirasdorp Johannesburg

My unofficial guide asked me to take his photo in front of this giant mural of the Lion and human face. This entire area was previously known as Chinatown, famous for its Chinese Restaurants.  After the decay set in they left.

Newtown

The supporting pillars of the M1 Highway formed these lovely leading lines.. I waited for the person with the red jacket to enter the scene. One can see his red jacket reflection in a weather puddle in the road.

 

Newtown

This red building is an Iconic sight in Newtown. This building used to be the cold storage facility when the fresh produce market was still trading across the road.

This man was praying arms in the air and it presented a fantastic image. One has to be ready for these fleeting moments.

Johannesburg Commissioner Street.

I find this old decaying building fascinating. It is situated across the road from the Johannesburg Central police Station.

I have not been able to get any information on this building which  is still occupied.

Jeppe Street Post Office  Johannesburg.

The Post Office was filled with amazing Art Deco and Frescoes. There is an underground tunnel from the post office to Park Railway Station. It had a conveyor belt system to move the post to the railway station. Johannesburg has a network of underground tunnels, one of them was from The Fort to the High Court (behind the post office) to transport prisoners to the court. Many of these tunnels have been bricked up. The tunnels are infested with Rinkhals snakes who feed on an abundance of rodents.

JOHANNESBURG CBD

This is a typical street scene of Johannesburg facing west from The Standard Bank.

Standard Bank Commissioner Street

The Standard Bank Building was opened in it’s current  form during September 1890. Prior to that the bank operated from a tent.

The opening of the bank in 1886 coincided with the gold rush in Johannesburg and the Witwatersrand.

JOHANNESBURG FORT

The main entrance to The Fort. Situated in Hillbrow Johannesburg.

The South African Constitutional Court is built behind The Fort in Kotze street.

The Fort has significant historical value. Nelson Mandela and Mahatma Ghandi were both imprisoned here. Nelson Mandela was held in the hospital section of the prison.  These are only two of the numerous prisoners, that played a important role in our history.

The Fort was built to house British  POW during the 2nd Anglo-Boer war. After the war it was used as Johannesburg Prison.

The Three Castle building in Marshall street Johannesburg, was opened by Paul Kruger in 1989 almost the same time as The Fort.

The architects were Carter and MacIntosh.

The 3 turrets on the building represent ‘The Three Castles’ cigarettes. The building was bought out by United Tobacco company. In later years the building housed many nightclubs, one well know club was The Dungeon.

The once grand entrance to The Castle.

CONCLUSION

We thank Jan Van Heerden for his wonderful contribution. In coming Blogs we hope to feature more revealing through the lens incites into other parts of the world.